So I was recently asked by a newcomer to Interzone what my scariest moment in Iraq was, and I laughed at him and said "So, how long you been here?" Damn newbies.
Ok I can't keep a straight typeface over that one; I hate that phrase so much that I just gave myself the willies. See previous post. PLEASE! I am not that kind of jerkface. I am a totally different and unique breed of jerkface, who takes umbrage at such relatively innocuous status-seeking comments.
Well, moving on, I had long ago already put a caption under a certain picture on my smugmug page which briefly relates my scariest moment, which came about because I took that picture in the first place. So here's how it went, long-winded version:
In September or October last year, I was busy making arrangements to go on my month-long vacation. My itinerary included Russia, where I was going to have my edge-of-space flight in the Mig-25.* I had to get a visa to visit Russia, so S stuffed me in the back of his car and took me out to the Mansour (mon-soor) district of Red-Zone Baghdad, where the Russian Embassy is. I actually had to do this little jaunt out into Baghdad a couple of times, because first I had to go bring them copies of my passport and fill out the visa application, and then come back a week later to pick up the visa after they'd finished processing it. The first time we went out, on the way back from the Russian Embassy, we passed by this HUGE mosque that is even now still under construction. I don't know what it's to be called, but work on it was begun by Saddam a long time ago; He wanted for it to be the biggest mosque in the world, and when it is completed, it will be. It's really quite unbelievably large. Anyway, after Saddam "left the building", the new Iraqi government took up the cause and continued construction, and it's looking pretty impressively mosquey these days. So obviously, I had to have a picture of it, and on the second trip out there I brought my camera.
The mosque sits far off one of the main roads of Mansour, and yet due to it's immense size, is extremely visible. S pulled onto the curb and I rolled the back window down slightly enough for me to point my lens out, and snapped a few. Here's the one that I think really did us in, and you can click on it to go to the page where I have the others.
Anyway, we started to pull out, when ten Iraqi guys, significantly I thought, not wearing any type of uniform came running out from a dirty shack that I'd thought was abandoned and pointed really big guns at us, yelling for us to stop. I started yelling at S to "Go! Go!" But he didn't, and backed up to where the guards were instead. Later when I asked him why he didn't burn rubber, which would have made the most sense to me, he said it was because he believed that they would have shot at our car. I was incredulous because we were on a very busy street in downtown Baghdad, and had a decent 30 yard lead on the gun-toting Iraqis who were on foot, after all, but he said that they still would have opened fire... I can't really bring myself to believe that, but you know, when there is a good soccer match on Iraqi TV or a wedding, Iraqis point their guns up and send out braps of celebratory gunfire, no matter what part of the city or how busy the area they're in is, so who knows. He also said that if we'd had our own gun, he could have waved it at them and then we could drive away because they wouldn't want to get involved in a gunfight. That one really stretches my credulity, and makes me extremely happy that I don't believe in carrying weaponry. Not having a gun probably saved us that day.
So they made us get out of the car, guns pointed at us. I had a large one aimed at my belly while they searched the car and took my camera for a look over. They then made us drive over to their shack, all the while chattering away in that incomprehensible moon-man language of theirs, and S was too involved in what was going on and, I presume, a bit too freaked out to translate anything for me. This went on for about ten minutes, when they took my badges and camera, and made S get in another car with them. I started yelling all angry-like with "What's all this then? What's all this then?" indignation. They let S tell me then that "Everything is fine, they just want to look at the pictures on your camera and ask me a few questions. Just hang out here and we'll be back in a few minutes." Well, he looked nervous, and not quite like everything was fine, but not totally freaked out and his voice was mostly steady. Besides, what could I do? Well I'll tell you what I could do; I'm a real pig-headed dumbf*** when I get in tense situations and am scared, so I started yelling "This is Bullsh**!!" really loud a bunch of times. You know, because when people don't speak your language, swearing at them noisily and aggressively gets the point you're trying to make across and helps bridge the culture gap. S got out of the car and came over to me and tried to calm me down and made me get back in our car. "Dude", he says, "I'll be fine. Just chill out and these guys will get you a cup of tea." Yes, his english is often that colloquial. We've taught him well.
So he took off with a few of the mosque guards, as they turned out to be, and I waited in the back seat of our car while the guy who'd had the gun pointed at my belly brought me a little paper cup full of Iraqi chai. I must have sat there for about an hour, exchanging tense yet polite nods with the guards, while they kept trying to give me more tea. A very hospitable people, even with guns trained on you. I was totally freaked out by now, and not for me. I figured that if I was in any danger at this point, I'd have been the one whom they drove off. It was a very long hour, but finally the car came back and praise Allah! They brought my camera back to me unscathed! As I hastily checked my camera for marks and made sure that the CF card was still there, I absent-mindedly asked "Hey, where's S, anyway. Isn't he ready to go yet?"
I am so going to hell for that joke. You know I'm kidding, right S? But everything was mostly ok. They hadn't tortured him, and although he seemed a bit shaken, assured me that nothing bad was going to happen. Once he'd explained to them that I was just a mentally challenged American tourist who took an inordinate amount of photographs, and they saw that there was nothing other than a few innocent snapshots on my camera, they decided that we were not, in fact, terrorists who wanted to blow up their big new mosque and were going to let us go. I'm still baffled to this day as to how they could have thought that a very white American with a DoD badge might be a terrorist, but I suppose they felt that they couldn't be too careful. They apparently took a photo of S's ID, because they were afraid that he was some sort of informant, and one of the guys was giving him some veiled threats; S figured it was because he was working with an American. Luckily it was an old ID, which didn't have his current address on it, but he was still a little freaked about that and spent a few weeks inside the IZ at our camp just in case. Nothing came of it, so all's well that ends well, I suppose.
So that's my scariest moment in Iraq. I mean, there have been others, but those don't involve my own stupidity, and have more to do with intense heart palpitations after hearing explosions and whatnot, and are not really interesting to write about.
By the way, I've really been enjoying Orcinus lately. I know that there is already a link on my sidebar to it, but the articles are so intelligent and in-depth that I wanted to plug it and highly suggest that you go take a look. Orcinus is yet another site I've been turned on to by GoDrex.
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